We had stayed in an ice hotel in Canada before, so during our visit to Norway we decided to try a snow hotel. This one was in Kirkenes, on the extreme northern coast of the country, along the Bøkfjord—about 400 km north of the Arctic Circle and just 9 km from the Russian border.
We arrived in April, near the end of the season, and to our surprise, the hotel was completely empty. The rooms, carved entirely out of snow, were beautifully sculpted and eerily quiet. Adjoining them was a separate building with excellent shower facilities and a chic, cosy lounge. Animal furs were draped over comfortable chairs, creating a warm and inviting space where we could relax after the stark, icy surroundings.
The Norwegian staff were incredibly friendly and eager to chat with us. Perhaps pleased to have guests so late in the season. We wandered through the snow hotel, exploring the various rooms before choosing one that featured a beautifully sculpted fireplace made entirely of snow and ice, along with an armchair carved in the same way.
Each room was uniquely decorated, with exquisitely molded animals emerging from the walls as if frozen in motion. The walls and ceilings shimmered with tiny crystals, catching the light so that they sparkled like carved diamonds. The whole place felt magical as though we were sleeping inside a work of art.
At 5:30 pm we attended a safety briefing about spending the night in the snow hotel. It took place in a goahti, a traditional dwelling once used by the Sami people, the indigenous inhabitants of the northern regions of Norway, Sweden, and Russia. The structure, shaped like a tepee, felt both ancient and intimate. Inside, an open fire burned at the centre, casting a soft, flickering light around the dimly lit space. As we gathered around, I learned that this part of Norway has the highest concentration of bears in the country—a fact that stayed with me, especially since I had noticed that the snow hotel itself had an opening exposed to the elements, which made me slightly uneasy.
Meanwhile, our host roasted delicious reindeer sausages over the fire, and we sat together, warming our hands and sipping hot berry juice. The firelight, the food, and the stories created a cosy, atmosphere that contrasted with the icy world outside.
At 10:00 p.m., we made our way back to the snow hotel for our night in one of its rooms. We had been advised to wear just one layer of thermals, as the sleeping bags we would sleep in were designed to withstand temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees. Inside the hotel, the temperature was kept at a constant minus four—cold, but surprisingly manageable.
We climbed into our sleeping bag liners and then into the thick sleeping bags, which despite being on top of a large block of ice acting as the mattress was suprisingly comfortable. We were cocooned in a room that looked like something out of Santa’s house. Following instructions, we wriggled around for a while to warm up the bags before settling down for the night.
However, sleep proved elusive for me, not because of the cold but due to Ade’s snoring. . At some point, I quietly relocated to the honeymoon suite—a surreal room decorated entirely in shades of pink, complete with elegant ice swans. It was an unexpected upgrade and, at last, a peaceful end to a very unusual night.
It’s not every day that I begin the morning with a sauna, but on this occasion, I was more than grateful. Within minutes, I felt wonderfully warm, this was followed by a long, luxurious hot shower.
As I stepped back into the day, I couldn’t help but reflect on what a truly unique and memorable experience it had been—strange, but beautiful, and not as cold as you might think.
Top Tips
Snow hotel in Kirkernees – we went in April, it was off season, quiet and cheaper
Getting there – fly to Oslo, then take internal flight to Kirkenees via Tromos
Pick up postal boat from Kirkenees down to Bodo. It is meant to be a ferry service stopping in on all the little ports on the north and west coast of Norway. It is however more of a cruise ship.
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